Thursday, October 26, 2017

Moving South Oct 10--25

     After great times in Solomons, MD and Deltaville, VA, it is time to flee the soon-to-be-too-cold northern climes for sunny (they say) Florida.  The weather has been "fair", but pretty rough offshore, so we have chosen to keep moving each day via the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway.  Unlike the Texas ICW which is pretty well maintained and used daily by lots of commercial traffic, the Atlantic ICW is more of a recreational boating venue, and therefore has more difficulty commanding scarce dollars allocated for dredging.  This means that in many places one can only travel during a part of the day before and after high tide, and then must wait until the following day to move farther.
     The first days were spent traveling to Norfolk, VA, a favorite anchorage in a creek near Belhaven, NC, and to Morehead City, NC, the home of dear friends who lived in Corpus Christi 35 years ago.  We had a wonderful dinner and visit with them, and then moved on (mostly offshore) through Wrightsville Beach, NC to Southport, NC.  We have spent many days in Southport over the years, and the dockmaster still remembers us and places us in "our slip".  The next two stops were at a small marina south Myrtle Beach, SC and Georgetown, SC.  After threading our way through several shallow spots, we passed through Charleston, SC and anchored in Church Creek 10 miles south of there.  The following day found us in Beaufort, SC, a neat old Southern town.  We then moved to Isle of Hope, GA, slightly south of Savannah near Skidaway Island.  This positioned us for a high tide arrival at Hell Gate, one of the Georgia trouble spots, and a mid-tide arrival at another.  We made it to St. Simons, GA (near Brunswick), where the dockmaster appeared at the boat at 0645 the following morning with muffins and a newspaper!  Most of our travels were more or less in tandem with another Krogen whose owner single-hands it, and though we weren't at the same spot every night, we did enjoy several dinners together and developing a special friendship.  He turned upriver in Jacksonville toward the marina where his boat will spend the winter, and we anchored for the evening.  In Florida the tidal range is 2 1/2-4 feet rather than the 8-9 feet in Georgia and South Carolina.  Arrival timing at low-water spots is still important, but not to the degree of the last two weeks.
     Traversing the Florida ICW is always interesting, and though we are ahead of the bulk of the southward migration, a number of "fast" boats, many of which are new boats on their way from the Annapolis boat show to the Fort Lauderdale boat show, passed us along the way.  Some are courteous and slow down to lessen their wake; others just speed on by.  After anchoring up the St. John River south of Jacksonville, we traveled south through St. Augustine, and stayed at Marineland.  The following evening was spent at New Smyrna Beach, a small but friendly municipal marina.  This was a shorter run than we would have preferred, but there is a NASA railroad bridge which is closed from 0800--1200 and 1300--1600 every day, and so we needed a stop close enough to it (30 miles) to make the noon opening.  That we did, and encountered a lot of the fast boats that had passed us waiting, as they were unaware of the closed hours.  That evening with a cold front passing we stopped at a small marina at Eau Gallie, just north of Melbourne.  The final day to Fort Pierce was windy, but clearing and getting cooler.  Perhaps winter is coming, and we have been wise to move south!  By moving consistently each day, we have covered almost 1000 nautical miles in the last 17 days.  It is time to do some maintenance chores on the boat, but also time for some rest!

Norfolk View

Charleston

Charleston

"I Can't See!"

"Am I Overloaded?"

Tucked Into Osprey Marina

"I Can Fly"

View From St. John River Anchorage

Florida Works on Appearances

Crew Practice Eau Gallie

Pelican Island New Smyrna

Destination Reached
Fort Pierce, FL









Monday, October 9, 2017

Return to Texas Ranger Sept--Oct

   After a trip home to Texas to be battered by Hurricane Harvey and its aftermath, we returned to Maryland and the boat on September 26.  A very inexpensive flight from Houston to BWI followed by a rental car trip to Solomons, MD once again put us aboard our floating home.  Several mechanical and upholstery projects had been completed in our absence, and we were delighted with the results.  After testing and cleaning, we prepared for the annual Kadey-Krogen owners group Rendezvous in Solomons.  Calvert Marina where the Rendezvous is held is a special place--remote, rustic, and idyllic.  It is, indeed, one of the places that we consider "home away from home".  The owner and staff are our friends, and we find the time spent there to always be special.  Boats with long-time friends aboard began to arrive, and Stacy came from Houston to visit for about 4 days just before the Rendezvous began.  Richard was busy with the docking crew, assisting in docking 46 boats in 2 days.  A picture of the result is included below.
   Stacy and Kay toured Annapolis on the way back to BWI for Stacy's trip home, and then all attendees enjoyed the Rendezvous.  On Sunday, Oct 8, all boats blasted their air horns at 0830 and departed.  Texas Ranger traveled down the Chesapeake Bay to Deltaville, VA, our first stop on the journey south, and another stopover that is special to us.  You can't get much more remote than Deltaville, and you also can't find nicer people anywhere.  A number of friends also made that first-day trip, and a local boatyard and marina sponsored a party in honor of our arrival.  After relaxing the next day (and waiting for better weather), we will continue south through Norfolk, and then into North Carolina (the bug capital of the world).



Wednesday, July 26, 2017

Boston to Solomons, MD July 15--21

     We had originally planned to run up into Maine for a couple of weeks before heading south to meet mid-August obligations in Texas.  However, the weather "up north" has been so marginal and unpredictable this year that we realized there would be constant time pressure, and perhaps scheduling issues if not able to travel almost every day.  Therefore, with a weather forecast south of New England for a good travel week, we departed Boston the day after J.  The Cape Cod Canal current turned favorable about 1500, which was perfect timing for our arrival from Boston.  We passed through the canal, and anchored in Clark's Cove just south of New Bedford.  The next morning we left Buzzard's Bay, and proceeded to Block Island, which would be our "jumping off" place for the ocean voyage to Cape May.  After dropping the mooring early the following morning, we headed south, past Montauk Point on the eastern end of Long Island, and headed across all of the shipping lanes into New York harbor on a bee line for Cape May, NJ.  About 27 hours after departing Block Island, we entered the Cape May Canal and transited to Delaware Bay.  Weather here is definitely warmer than up north--in fact, with no breeze and high humidity, almost sweltering!  We scrapped plans to anchor just west of the C&D Canal due to no breeze, and tied up to a marina in the canal where we could obtain shore power to run the air conditioner!  After being up most of the night before, good sleep was essential.
     The following day we traveled to Annapolis, where we spent a couple of nights, went sightseeing once again, and met with a lady who will re-upholster our salon cushions.  We then traveled to Solomons, MD, where we will have some minor engine work done and leave the boat while we return to Texas for a visit.

New Bedford to Scituate to Boston July 6--14

     We left New Bedford at sunrise (or a little before?) in order to get to, and through, the Cape Cod Canal with a favorable current.  That meant that we needed to be out of the canal by 0900, which we accomplished.  Texas Ranger then proceeded north along the Massachusetts coast past Plymouth, and entered Scituate Harbor about noon.  We were assigned, and attached to, a mooring ball, and then rode the launch ashore to explore the town.  The Good Life and Klassy Kadey arrived, and so all three crews enjoyed dinner together in a restaurant.
     The following morning we were off early by launch and train to Boston.  Then the MTA (subway) took us to the Charlie Store, where we obtained a "Senior Charlie Pass", allowing us to travel for $1.10 per trip instead of $2.75 per trip.  We then took another ride on the MTA and a bus to Logan Airport to collect our seven year-old granddaughter, who had flown up alone from Houston.  All three of us then rode the train (J travels free on train & MTA) back to Scituate, the local shuttle bus, and the launch to our boat in pouring rain.  The boat rolled a lot that night with the weather, but by morning conditions were calm, and we took the boat to Boston.  J helped read the chart, locate the markers, and watch for ships (the 1000 foot variety) who were also entering Boston Harbor.  We docked at Constitution Marina, a few hundred yards from the U.S.S. Constitution, and spent a fantastic week touring Boston.  We toured the Freedom Trail, Prudential Tower, Tea Party Museum, Museum of Science, Harvard, Mass General Hospital Ether Dome, Old Ironsides Museum, and more.  She can navigate the subway system and airport like a pro!  Perhaps her favorite attraction was the street jugglers performing outside Faneuil Hall.  After a week or non-stop touring and lots of fun, J must return to Houston, and we must move on.  One cannot afford to stay in Boston for long!

Scituate, MA Harbor & Lighthouse

Throwing the Tea Overboard

Tea Party Ship

Paul Revere

Veteran MTA Riders

Headed to the Ivy League


Monday, July 10, 2017

Newport, RI--New Bedford, MA June 29--July 5

     Kadey-Krogen Yachts, the builder of Texas Ranger, celebrated its 40th anniversary with a wonderful party and rendezvous of about 40 yachts in Newport, RI June 29--July 2.  The gathering was at Fort Adams in Newport Harbor, and featured many great gatherings and meals, including a very traditional New England Clambake.  Also, those who wished (including this Captain--on Intrepid) got to sail on former 12-meter America's Cup winners of a few decades ago.  Though the wind was stiff, it was an exhilarating romp in the bay!
     Next, we were off to New Bedford.  Having visited Nantucket and Edgartown, this is the last, and greatest, of the New England whaling towns.  We had to vacate the docks at Fort Adams to make way for the 4th of July reservations, and wanted to be off the water for the holiday.  New Bedford is still a serious working town fishing village, and on July 4 we were treated to a fantastic fireworks display a few hundred yards across the harbor, with the displays of surrounding towns visible around the horizon.  The Whaling Museum is second to none, and the Seamen's Bethel where Herman Melville worshiped before going to sea is still there.  His pew was duly noted, as well as the epitaph of the sea captain upon which the character Captain Ahab is based.

Oliver Hazard Perry
Newport, RI

The "Big" Krogens

New England Clambake

K-K 40th Anniversary Party

Henry The Navigator

New Bedford Harbor

New Bedford, MA

New Bedford Whaling Museum

1/2 Size Model

Melville's Pew

Basis For Capt. Ahab

Whaling Museum

Seamen's Bethel

Seen One of These Lately?




Wednesday, June 28, 2017

Nantucket -- Providence Area June 16--28

     From Edgartown, Texas Ranger traveled a very rough passage to Nantucket.  Contrary to weather forecasts, the wind was 35+ knots, mostly on the nose, with commensurate seas.  Since it was a relatively short passage, we proceeded anyway, and arrived early afternoon.  The last time we visited Nantucket we were on a mooring ball, but we had found a "pre-season" dockage special that allowed us to actually be in the Nantucket Boat Basin at a dock for minimally more dollars.  With the weather as poor as has been typical since our arrival in New England, this was indeed fortuitous.  When the weather turned messy, we could quickly retreat to the boat.  I will not post many pictures of Nantucket.  Though a fascinating place, I covered "The Gray Lady" fairly well on our last visit in August, 2014.
     We did experience some very special events, as a friend and author from Corpus Christi now summers on the island.  She invited us to dinner along with a most interesting Baylor journalism professor and his wife, and the pastor of the local Congregational Church and his spouse.  The pastor also has degrees from Baylor, and his wife is originally from Corpus Christi.  It was indeed an eclectic and very erudite group, and with a delicious meal, a most enjoyable evening!  The following morning we attended the First Congregational Church, where our Baylor prof was the guest speaker.  His message was not only informative, but most thought-provoking.  Following the service, we toured the just-refurbished lower level, part of the original church built in 1711.  Kadey-Krogens Bon Voyage and Tuscan Sun arrived in Nantucket the day prior to our departure, and all three couples had a wonderful visit.
     We had tarried a couple of days longer than planned hoping for better weather, and finally we were rewarded with a calm and beautiful trip to Narragansett Bay.  We traversed the Newport area, and proceeded upriver to Barrington, RI, just a few miles south of Providence.  Over several days of cleaning and restocking the boat, we also visited area sights.  In Bristol, the Herreshoff Museum chronicled the company that led many advances in wooden boatbuilding, designing and constructing several America's Cup defenders during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.  We also toured the Federal Hill section of Providence, the center of the Italian culture of the city, and stayed to watch the Waterfire lighting display.  In Warren, we feasted at Blount's Clam Shack.  Note the vinyl sign:  "Summer Kick-off June 29".  June 29???  Well, it was 53 degrees this morning...  Tomorrow we will travel downriver to Newport for a 4-day party celebrating Kadey-Krogen's 40th year in business!

Texas Ranger in Nantucket Boat Basin

A la George Strait--
"Where The Sidewalk Ends"

North Stone--Lines up
with South Stone a Block
Away to Indicate True North

Dog-friendly Place
Like This Chauffeur

Herreshoff Museum

Herreshoff Museum, Bristol, RI

Boats Undergoing Restoration

Top Quality

RI Capitol, Providence

Torches Approaching

Small Boat Lighting Waterfront Torches

Waterfire Circle Now Ablaze
Blount's Clam Shack, Warren, RI
Summer Starting June 29???

The River Afire



Thursday, June 15, 2017

Martha's Vineyard June 13--15

     In the golden age of whaling (1830-1845), there were three major whaling ports in this area:  New Bedford, Nantucket, and Edgartown.  Edgartown, the first settlement on the island of Martha's Vineyard (1642), is where Texas Ranger has been on a mooring the last few days following a passage from Block Island.  Though it originally had a different name, it was renamed in honor of Edgar, son of the Duke of York.  It lies on the east end of the island, and features the white clapboard buildings so typical of that period in New England history.  It is a thriving community whose economy is now driven primarily by tourism.  In its heyday, there were about 120 whaling captains living here, and most of their homes--quite prestigious by the standards of their day--still line the harbor.  Those familiar with the sea chantey "Old Zeb" will remember the reference therein to Edgartown.  Many upscale restaurants and stores abound in the old downtown area, including the original Vineyard Vines store.
     On our second day, we traveled (very economical 3-day Senior bus pass) to Vineyard Haven, the harbor which receives most of the huge ferries that transport people and vehicles from the mainland, and wandered its "tourist trap" Main Street, with many interesting shops.  On the waterfront is the Black Dog Tavern--the original restaurant which gave rise to a bakery and a line of clothing well-known to most Labrador Retriever owners.  Leaving Vineyard Haven, we went to Menemsha, a small harbor near the northwestern end of the island.  It was nice to see the harbor, as friends have told us of their previous visits there by boat.  There was little to see except a couple of seafood companies and gift shops.  The Obamas have just purchased a home east of Menemsha--up a private road with no other access, but a beautiful view of Vineyard Sound.  The far western tip of the island was next on our agenda--the town of Aquinnah (Wampanoag reservation area) and Gay Head Light--the lighthouse marking the western tip of Martha's Vineyard.
   Our third day on the island included a trip to Oak Bluffs, a very unique village north of Edgartown.  It originated following the War of Northern Aggression as the site of Methodist camp meetings.  Originally participants pitched their tents in the vicinity of the central Tabernacle, but later those abodes evolved into gingerbread-style houses, over 300 of which still comprise the village.  The Tabernacle seats over 3,000, and is in Trinity Park across from both Trinity Methodist Church and the unique octagonal Union Chapel with its three-tiered roof and four doors, which was built in 1871 as an interdenominational chapel.  We finished off our day with some final sightseeing and shopping (not purchasing!) in Edgartown.  Though our mooring was between Martha's Vineyard and Chappaquiddick Island which was made notorious by Teddy Kennedy--the inquest was held in the Duke County (New York had Kings and Queens counties) courthouse in Edgartown--we did not ride the small ferry across.

Federated Church
1828--Whale Oil
Chandelier

Old Whaling Church
1843

Dr. Daniel Fisher
House--1840

Whaling Capt. Houses

"Chappy" Ferry

The Essence of the Battle

Patriotic Gaff Rig

Edgartown Shoreline

Vineyard Haven

Vineyard Haven Marina

Original Black Dog Tavern

Black Dog Restored
This Ship

Menemsha Tuna

Menemsha

Gay Head Light

Oak Bluffs

Oak Bluffs

Oak Bluffs

Union Chapel

Camp Meeting
Tabernacle

Tabernacle--Capacity 3,000

Trinity Methodist Church