Waccamaw River, SC to Southport, NC August 26-27



Golfers, not Skiers

One Way to Get High Lines

There was not a ripple on the glassy surface of the Waccamaw River as we weighed anchor around 0700 and moved north, leaving the river and entering the ICW cut by 0715.  We passed the Socastee Bridge at 0740, and our next unique site was a tram crossing high above the waterway.  There are over 120 golf courses in the area through which we were passing, and there is actually a tram (like ski lifts) with cars that carry golfers from one side of the ICW to the other.  We passed several more bridges, and navigated through a narrow path of several miles lined with rock bottom and sides called “the rock pile”.  At 1055 we entered North Carolina, and crossed by a couple of small inlets from the ocean with significant shoaling.  By 1430 we reached Southport, NC at the Cape Fear inlet, and docked at Southport Marina.  

Southport, NC Marina

Southport Marina

Southport, NC

Southport, NC

Southport, NC

We toured Southport, seeing both of their traffic lights, many historic homes, and the North Carolina Maritime Museum, which was really quite impressive.

Fishy, Fishy   Southport, NC

Dewees Creek, SC to Waccamaw River, SC August 26

Dewees Creek was a very quiet, peaceful anchorage amid South Carolina marsh.  There were absolutely no waves, and other than quietly changing direction as the tide changed, there was no boat movement.  We slept in a bit, allowing for the rising tide beginning later, and got underway about 0815, entering the ICW by 0830.  Some of the houses we passed had piers extending from the homes out across the marsh and into the water that had to have been at least 1200 feet long—almost needed a golf cart to ride out their pier to the boat!  We passed through McClellanville at 1115, and by 1325 we passed a small cable-drawn ferry and were turning into Winyah Bay just south of Georgetown, SC.  Current was flowing with us, and we moved past Georgetown at 1400, and the north end of Butler Island by 1450.  Traveling the Waccamaw River, we saw miles of beautiful cypress swamp, and finally had a wide, deep waterway in which to travel with a bit less stress.  There is a lovely oxbow anchorage on the river just north of Bucksport, SC, and we anchored there about 1700.

South Carolina Marsh

South Carolina Marsh

Cable Ferry

Waccamaw River Anchorage

Waccamaw River

 

Beaufort, SC to Dewees Creek, SC August 25

We departed Beaufort, SC early—about 0700—as we knew we had several shallow areas to traverse and were timing the rising tide.  We passed Brickyard Point into the Coosaw River about 0800, and by about 0930 entered the first area predicted to be difficult.  It was the Ashepoo-Coosaw Cutoff, and though we had no problems at about ½ tide, it would have been too shallow with any lower tide.  We cleared Watts Cut about 1100, passed through the other shallow areas north of there, and entered the North Edisto River about 1145.  We moved along well, but the plethora of small motorboats, many operating wildly and recklessly, was amazing all the way to Charleston.  We turned into Elliott Cut just south of Charleston at 1420, and by 1440 we were entering the Ashley River.  Since we had thoroughly toured Charleston about 3 years ago when I attended a meeting there, we had decided to forego sightseeing it again.  With that decision, we opted to get north of all of the Charleston Harbor entrance traffic today, and thereby have a fresh start in the morning.  Charleston marinas on both the Ashley and the Cooper Rivers have ferocious tidal currents.  By 1515 we had entered the ICW north of Charleston Harbor, but terrific currents and many shallow spots were a challenge for the first few miles.  We found a delightful anchorage in Dewees Creek, and dropped anchor there about 1630.  A FULL day!

Charleston, SC Marina

Charleston Historic Area

Charleston Historic Area

Charleston, SC

One delightful surprise of the day was the cool front that passed through Beaufort during the night.  Wind was from the north, drier, and definitely milder!

Fort Sumpter, SC

 

Savannah, GA to Beaufort, SC August 24

As soon as Thunderbolt Marina delivered their signature Krispy Kreme donuts to the boat about 0700, we got underway.  We passed under the Varnedoe Bridge at 0735, and progress was slow up the ICW due to many bends, shoaling, and uncertain deep water.  We reached the Savannah River about 0815 to find two large ships meeting each other in a turn in the river right where we would enter and cross the river.  Needless to say, we circled in the narrow channel waiting for them to pass.  We wound our way up behind Daufuskie Landing and Daufuskie Island, seeing many beautiful homes.   At 0945 we made the turn in Calibogue Sound across from Harbour Town and turned up behind Hilton Head Island.  Again, beautiful homes were too numerous to count.  By 1100 we were past Hilton Head and in the Chechessee River. 

 



We Share ICW With All Types

Harbour Town, Hilton Head, SC




Hilton Head, SC

Ladys Island Swing Bridge, Beaufort, SC
 

We crossed Port Royal Sound, rounded Parris Island, and traveled up the Beaufort River past the Parris Island Marine Corps facility to the town of Beaufort, docking at their Downtown Marina about 1300.  Fortunately there was a floating dock, as the tide change was about 8 feet!  We checked in, borrowed the marina’s courtesy car, and were off to the grocery store—just in time!  We then took a carriage ride of downtown Beaufort, and learned a great deal about the history of this area.  The Clydesdale horse drawing our carriage was none other than the celebrity who was freed from the mud about 10 years ago, airlifted to the vet by helicopter, and subsequently featured on Animal Planet.  Many Beaufort homes date from the 1700s, and  we learned (by looking at the shape of the chimney) to tell


Parris Island Marine Corps Facility


 

Beaufort, SC Waterfront

which homes were 18^th century, which were 19^th century, and which were 20^th century.  We walked a bit on our own, took some pictures, and stopped in at The Chocolate Tree store featured in the movie, Forrest Gump.  We then cleaned up for dinner at one of the waterfront restaurants.



Hanging Tree...Low Clearance!

Historic Beaufort, SC Homes

Historic Beaufort, SC Home

Historic Beaufort, SC Home

Historic Beaufort, SC Home

Add caption

The Baptist Church, Beaufort, SC

First African Baptist Church Beaufort, SC



Historic Beaufort, SC Home

Tabby Seawall, 250+ years old

Savannah, GA Aug 22-23

Ever See a Walk-up McDonald's ?

Paula Deen Still Well-Liked Here

Savannah City Hall

Big Duke Fire Bell

 Ever See a Walk-Up
McDonald's?  On the other end of the scale, Paula Deen's several facilities are still popular here.


Dolphin Down Spout

Savannah was designed with 24 squares (or parks) in various zones of the city.  If there was a fire, the bell rang the appropriate number of rings to tell residents which zone number had a fire so they could respond to help.



Forsyth Park

Each down spout is reported to be worth over
$ 3,000.

Kehoe House

Owens-Thomas House

After enjoying a couple of days viewing the sights of historic Savannah, it is time to move north out of Georgia.  We have enjoyed our stay here, as well as the 9-foot tides and associated currents, but we are ready to move to where they are not quite as dramatic.

Savannah Police Department

Presbyterian Church

I have also thrown in the towel at the job
of trying to space the layout of these photos,
as BlogSpot seems to have a mind of its own
in that regard...




Wahoo River, GA to Thunderbolt (Savannah), GA August 21

We had a great night in the Wahoo River, with never less than 20 feet under the boat, even with 7-8 foot tidal changes every 6 hours.  We got away by 0700 to take advantage of some still-incoming tide and its height, and had some favorable current early.  In addition to many, many dolphins most of the day, we passed about 20 feet away from an alligator swimming along the channel.  Though he rolled an eyeball in our direction, he continued parallel to us, seemingly unfazed by the large creature passing him.  We turned in St. Catherine’s Sound by 0845, and were at Hell’s Gate in the Ogeechee River at 1020.  This was not long after high tide, and there was about 8 feet of water under the keel.  Though this was plenty, Hell’s Gate would not be a comfortable depth below ½ tide.  By noon we passed Isle of Hope, and arrived at Thunderbolt Marina in Savannah about 1245.  Docking was a bit of a challenge with a terrific river flow, but we were soon secured and checked in. 

Home is Where the Nest Is

Skidaway Island, GA

 

 

Which Skidaway Island retreat is really "home"?

 

 

We arrived following another Krogen (Akasha) that had joined the ICW in front of us at Kilkenny Creek, and met yet another Krogen (Santa Clara) at the marina.  All are Texans!   We will spend a few days absorbing the history and sights of this wonderful southern city, one of the few spared by Sherman during his March to the Sea near the end of the War of Northern Aggression.

 

 

Fernandina Beach, FL to Wahoo River, GA August 20

Fernandina Beach Paper Mill

Can You See the 2 Bald Eagles?

As we departed Fernandina Beach, Kay enjoyed (not) the aroma of their paper mills…reminiscent of her East Texas childhood. 


King's Bay Sub Base Degaussing Unit

Cumberland Island Wild Horse

After crossing the St. Mary River into Georgia, we soon passed the King’s Bay Naval Submarine base, and then moved northward behind Cumberland Island.  We saw lots of scenic marsh and trees, and near the northern end a number of the wild horses for which Cumberland Island is known.  We then passed Jekyll Island, former winter retreat  of many wealthy industrialists of a century ago, and St. Simon’s Island. 



St. Simons Island, GA

Can You Count the Surplus Nav Aids?

We crossed Sapelo Sound, and reached the Wahoo River where we anchored in a scenic bend with trees on one side and marsh on the other.  A full moon rose later, creating an idyllic isolated retreat. 



Wahoo River, GA North Side

Wahoo River, GA South Side