Fort Myers to Stuart Via Lake O July 21-22

Legacy Harbour, Fort Myers

Yesterday, following an early morning rain, we departed Fort Myers about 0745 after a delightful week there.  It did rain at some point every day, even when forecasted not to, but we enjoyed the relaxing time, exploring, and sightseeing, and got to meet some wonderful new friends.  Gail and Chris are relatively recent Kadey-Krogen owners, and they warmly welcomed us to Fort Myers, even taking us to a nearby hole-in-the-wall Mexican restaurant.  Kay has been in near withdrawal for Mexican food, so this was a special treat.  We spent one day at the Edison and Ford Winter Retreat grounds, homes, and museums, and not only learned a great deal of horticulture, but also about some of America’s most impressive inventors and industrialists.  Our stay at Legacy Harbour Marina was first-class, with excellent facilities and staff and a Publix grocery within about three blocks.

Roland Martin Marina, Clewiston

After fighting the current upstream in the Caloosahatchee River all day, passing numerous bridges and locking up in three locks, we passed through the open small lock into Clewiston at the south edge of Lake Okeechobee.  We spent the night tied to a dock at a small marina there, and arrived none too soon.  A half hour after our arrival, a 3-hour thunderstorm with impressive Florida lightning arrived.  We turned in early!

Today we were up early, and by 0645 we were clear of Clewiston, out in Lake Okeechobee, and headed east.  We crossed the lake, passed through two locks (the last of which lowered us fourteen feet!), and several more bridges before arriving about 1330 at Sunset Bay Marina in Stuart.  Progress was much more satisfying today, as we were traveling downriver WITH the current.  We will likely leave the boat here a couple of weeks while we return to Texas.

Railroad Swing Bridge

Ortona Lock Opening

Englewood, FL to Fort Myers, FL July 15

We got an early start, off around 0700, with the plan being to get to Fort Myers.  We did have to wait for the next scheduled opening at one bridge for about 20 minutes, but otherwise made good progress.  The swing bridges we have encountered the last two days have been unusual, both with center pivots.  Yesterday the bridge tender had to walk out from the house to the center of the bridge and operate the bridge from that location on the center pivot.  She was out there on the little center pivot as we passed by; I suppose she swims back if the bridge does not close.  The larger swing bridge today required three employees; one climbed down beneath each end of the bridge to manually remove a latching pin, and then the third man operated the bridge from the control house (at least not from out on the center pivot point).  One would think that the unlatching could be accomplished remotely with the saving of two salaries…

From time to time as we've traveled, various birds have come to audition for the position of Ship's Maidenhead.  This fellow rode along with us for about a mile...

We then passed down behind Cayo Costa, North Captiva Island, Captiva Island, and Sanibel Island.  These well-known resort areas had little visible development from the ICW side, though we know that the beach-front development is more extensive.  Also, there were relatively few available good anchorages, and shallow water extends a long way in from shore.

About 1230 we reached Mile 0 of the Gulf Intracoastal Waterway at the mouth of the Caloosahatchee River near Fort Myers.  We proceeded upriver about fifteen miles amid rain showers, and after slowing to allow showers to pass, we docked about 1430 at Legacy Harbour Marina, which will be our base for a few days before we depart Florida’s west coast for Lake Okeechobee and then the east coast.


Manatee River, FL to Englewood, FL July 14

Englewood, FL Anchorage

We headed out of the Manatee River, across a very short span of Tampa Bay, and entered the ICW near Anna Maria Island.  We proceeded down the ICW, encountering numerous bridges.  Most opened on request, with no significant waits encountered.  It was not a particularly relaxing day, as there were lots of bends in the narrow channel, and a number of shoaled areas.  The spot we had selected for our evening anchorage was well off the channel, and contained about 12-15 boats when we arrived.  Most did not appear occupied, and one even sported a sign “this boat is not abandoned”.  We managed to find a spot to drop the hook near some mangrove islands, and had a delightful remote and well-protected anchorage with few people around.  Several rain showers (as every day) came through, then it was calm and cool overnight.

Clearwater, FL to Manatee River, FL July 13

We got underway from the Clearwater Municipal Marina in Clearwater Beach about 0745, and headed along the causeway toward downtown Clearwater and the ICW.  It was a beautiful morning with just a few clouds around the horizon, quite a difference from the forecasted torrential morning rains.  We turned into the ICW, and made good progress, clearing many bridges.  One or two we asked to open, but then we lowered the SSB antenna and discovered we could just sneak under most of the others.  Therefore, we didn’t have to wait for the scheduled openings that many of the bridges enforce.  A pleasant surprise at Bridge C was the discovery that it has been replaced by a new, fixed high bridge.  In fact, we had to wander between the barges that were engaged in removing the old bridge.   

At 1115 we turned out of the ICW to take the Tampa Bay alternate route at the Maximo Point Bridge, and ran alongside the Tampa Bay Sunshine Skyway Bridge across Tampa Bay.  This bridge has a remarkable history, somewhat tragic, but was rebuilt about 1980 after a cargo ship rammed its predecessor and dropped it into the bay, killing a number of people in vehicles on the bridge.  At about 1230 we reached the Manatee River entrance buoy, and proceeded to take a short tour upriver to Bradenton, FL before returning to anchor off DeSoto point.  We are adjacent to the DeSoto National Memorial Park, with a monument to the Spanish explorer who landed here in 1539 and later ventured on to discover the Mississippi River.  There is also a large concrete cross commemorating the location of the first Catholic mass celebrated on these shores.  We had a number of intermittent showers, once again reinforcing our doubt about the appellation “Sunshine State”, but afterwards we were treated to a reminder of God’s majesty--a beautiful rainbow spanning almost horizon to horizon.  

Clearwater, FL July 10-12

We’ve had fun in Clearwater the last few days, but it is time to move on.  Wednesday we toured the area, and again braved an impressive thunderstorm on our way back to the boat from dinner.  Thursday we bought an all-day pass on the trolley/bus system, and rode (in a violent thunderstorm) up to Tarpon Springs. 

Boats Behind Us In The Marina

Pelicans Waiting Patiently In Line

By the time we arrived, the rain had ended, and we enjoyed touring this Greek enclave renowned for its sponge harvesting.  We were educated about different types of sponges, and the techniques of harvesting and preparing them for the market.  We also had a lunch of authentic Greek cuisine served by families who obviously have been living here and doing this for decades. 

Tarpon Springs

Tarpon Springs Sponge Boat Exhibit

Tarpon Springs Sponge Boat

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Later, we rode the trolley around its route from Clearwater Beach down to Sand Key, using it as a tour bus.  Today we did trip planning, boat cleaning, laundry, etc., in anticipation of heading down the ICW toward the Palmetto-Bradenton area tomorrow.

Panama City to Clearwater, FL July 8-9

We left Panama City, FL about 1000 CDT yesterday, and headed across the northeast Gulf of Mexico for Clearwater, FL.  Winds were fairly light, but seas were choppy and confused off Panama City, and we were obviously bucking a knot or so of current until we were well clear of Cape San Blas.  After that, our speed picked up, and seas became smoother.  It was a new moon black night, so we had little to see except what the radar revealed.  There was quite a lightning show over the eastern horizon all night, though none of it was near us.  We had a very smooth day today, and arrived at the Clearwater Inlet about 1800 EDT.  That was at low tide, and though we never touched bottom, we saw some very shallow spots within the marked channel leading from the inlet to the municipal marina at Clearwater Beach.  We docked at the transient pier about 1900, plugged in, and located the security guard who provided gate/shower keys.

Clearwater Marina

Approaching Clearwater from the Gulf

 

 

 

 

 

 We then wandered into town (Clearwater Beach) and found dinner at the original Frenchy’s café.  The later iterations of this iconic spot have become more sophisticated with larger menus, but this was truly the small, quaint, original on which the others are based.  There was quite a thunderstorm as we made our way back to the boat, and though we had gotten pretty good sleep for alternating watches, it still didn’t take long for us to be sound asleep.

Alligator Point to Panama City July 1

We left our quiet anchorage about 0645, passed under the Choctawhatchee Bay Bridge, and soon entered what is called the ICW “Grand Canyon”, a stretch that was dug out of high sand banks with towering walls and foliage on both sides.  It is indeed like meandering through a canyon.  After an uneventful and pleasant run, we entered the Panama City Municipal Marina and tied up.  They were very friendly and helpful, with a well-stocked marina store.  After securing the boat, we wandered through downtown Panama City, checked out some of the shops, and returned to clean up.  We have spoken with the weather expert, and await his advice on the appropriate day for travel offshore to Tarpon Springs.  We will dine tonight at a well-known and highly recommended local spot—Bayou Joe’s. 





 

On Hold July 3

The weatherman yesterday said “no go” for a trip from Panama City to Tarpon Springs, so we are holed up in Panama City for a few days awaiting better conditions.  We are enjoying visiting with folks around, and watching them prepare for a big July 4^th bash, which may or may not be successful given the forecasts for heavy rains the next few days.  We moved slightly to a slip yesterday afternoon, as specific spots on the transient face dock are evidently reserved and paid for a year in advance to attend this July 4^th event.  

And what a flood it was--10 to 20 inches of rain in this area!  Flash flood warnings for days!  Fortunately, we just float a little higher, but ready to be off the boat a bit more!

Pensacola to Alligator Point June 30

Yesterday we went out to NAS Pensacola to tour the National Naval Aviation Museum.  With thunderstorms in the area, it was a good day for an indoor venue.  Also, the bus does not run on Sunday, and with the distance involved, a cab would have been very expensive.  We caught the bus that runs to the museum a few blocks from the marina, and had a delightful tour of a fair amount of Pensacola and two military installations while on the way.  In addition to touring the museum buildings, we also rode a trolley out to a part of the flight line where there are many planes that have been “retired” and donated to the museum.  Our driver was quite knowledgeable, and gave us a very interesting narrative about each plane.  After catching the bus back downtown, we walked through the old town Seville area, toured the Wentworth State Historical Museum there, and returned to the boat for dinner.  After dinner we walked over to the weigh-in station to take a peek at the tournament catch.

This morning we rose later, studied the weather, and decided to move on.  There were some thunderstorms in the area, but not a drop fell on us all day.  We motored over to the fuel dock, fueled, and checked out about 0945.  We had a brisk breeze across Pensacola Bay, then turned east into the ICW.  We passed the Navarre Beach Bridge at 1250 and the Fort Walton Beach Bridge at 1445.  We passed Destin, and were under the Choctawhatchee Mid Bay Bridge by 1600.  I had planned to anchor in Hogtown Bayou, but after considering how far off the ICW we would travel to pass its bottom obstructions, we continued on to a beautiful spot just east of Alligator Point.  We were welcomed by about a dozen dolphins as we anchored at 1745, and seemingly they approved of our location and technique.