New Bern, NC to Hampton, VA to Deltaville, VA July 19 -- 31

     We didn't have much faster progress returning to the East Coast than Harald was having with the brightwork.  Rent House issues, etc., significantly delayed our return, but finally we arrived in Bridgeton just after Harald finished his beautiful handiwork on our teak!  Again, trying to move ahead of deteriorating weather, we departed Bridgeton July 19 and made a long day run up Pamlico Sound inside the Outer Banks (avoiding Alligator-Pungo canal, Alligator River, etc.).  We anchored in Croatan Sound, and had a bouncier night than ideal because the wind was SE, and not SW as forecast.  The next morning we crossed Albemarle Sound, and arrived early afternoon in Coinjock, NC.  This is our first time to actually stay overnight there and partake of their renowned prime rib; it was indeed special.  The next day we made a short passage into Virginia, stopping in Chesapeake at Atlantic Yacht Basin.

     The following day we moved up the Elizabeth River through the conglomeration of multiple bridges that is Norfolk-Portsmouth.  We slipped past the Norfolk Naval Station between the arrival of one submarine and the departure of another.  Across the entrance channel coming from sea into Norfolk was our destination--another we had never visited--Hampton, VA.  We stayed at a nice public dock, and enjoyed unwinding and touring area attractions.  The Virginia Air and Space Center associated with NASA and Langley AFB was very interesting, and we also found a store of a dying breed--a stationer, well-stocked with fine writing papers and beautiful fountain pens.  Alas, as courtesies such as written correspondence are supplanted by electronic communication, the ability of such small niche businesses to survive is vanishing.  While I was not enamored by Hampton's Saturday night block party, some of the downtown eating establishments were outstanding!  Marker 20 served a spicy "Atlantic Jambalaya" (with asparagus spears in it) and a delicious paella that comprised a couple (enough for 2 meals) of the best meals we've had all year.

     After four nights in Hampton (stay 3, get one free) we departed for Deltaville, a favorite stop we've visited several times.  We stayed at Dozier's Regatta Point Marina, and retrieved our car from New Bern.  A car is almost essential if one is going to spend much time in Deltaville, as, other than boatyards, there is little in town.  There is always a great parade of transient boats passing through, however, and so we met many new boating friends. 

Hampton Public Piers Office

Virginia Air & Space Center

Virginia Air & Space Center

Jacksonville, FL to New Bern, NC May 1 -- May 7

     After two months in a wonderful marina (Ortega Landing) in Jacksonville, with numerous side car trips to places like Stuart, St. Augustine, Amelia Island, and Corpus Christi, we began to move north.  We had about had our fill of the shallow Atlantic ICW on our previous journeys, so this one entailed a lot more offshore time.  We moved over to Mayport, the area just off the Atlantic on the St. John's River entrance toward Jacksonville, and at dawn the following morning headed offshore bound for the Cape Fear Inlet at Southport, NC.  Other than some choppy seas the first few hours, it was a delightful passage with a near full moon.  We arrived in Southport late the following afternoon, and tucked into the same slip which we occupied for so long last winter.  It was good to see the great Southport Marina staff again, and even some townspeople we had met on our previous stops there.

     As the weather appeared to be deteriorating, we didn't stay long, but moved up the Cape Fear River and then offshore again at Wrightsville Beach.  That same afternoon we arrived at the Beaufort Inlet, and docked at another of our favorite spots, Morehead City Yacht Basin.  We had a delightful dinner at nearby Floyd's Restaurant, and after a couple of days we moved up the Neuse River to New Bern, NC.  New Bern, and Edenton, NC which we visited a couple of years ago, are where just about all of "pre-Revolutionary War" Carolinas history took place.  We actually stayed in a more remote marina across the river from New Bern in the small town of Bridgeton.  It is a great facility, but not much is going on in Bridgeton.  Since we retrieved the car from Jacksonville, that didn't pose too great a limitation, and we were able to adequately sightsee the area and the city of New Bern.  While there, I had engaged a brightwork expert, Harald Christianson, to refresh Texas Ranger's cap rails.  After riding out the rather non-eventful Tropical Storm Ana, we headed home to Texas for family reunion, visits with kids and grandkids, weddings, etc., while Harald tried to work between all of the rainy days that the New Bern area endured during May and June. 

On Watch

On Patrol

I See You!

Brunswick, GA to Fernandina Beach, FL to Jacksonville, FL Mar 2-3

     We departed Brunswick in moderate fog, but visibility in the river was adequate, so we pressed on.  A strong cold front is due in 2-3 days, and we want to be securely situated in a longer-term location by that time.  Also, it is quite possible that daily fog will be a factor until the passage of that front.  We passed down behind Jekyll Island in moderate fog, with the radar, navigation lights, and fog signal all going.  We only thought the fog was dense…we passed behind Cumberland Island, and I doubt we saw a thing!  We certainly did not see the horses which were clearly visible on our northward passage.  The King’s Bay naval submarine base was cleared, and fog was somewhat lighter as we crossed the St. Mary’s River into Florida.  We docked at the Fernandina Harbor Marina, and went off to renew our acquaintance with this quaint, downtown stop.

     The following morning we were off early, at high tide, to traverse a very shallow area that lies just south of Fernandina Beach.  With the high tide and careful attention to suggestions from those passing before us, we had no difficulty.  We traversed Sawpit Creek, cleared the Sister’s Creek Bridge, and entered the St. John River about 0945.  Our travel upriver through Jacksonsville was uneventful and faster than we had anticipated.  We passed a number of large vessels, and after passing the downtown area we turned out of the St. John River into the smaller Ortega River, the location of our destination marina.  Once out of its center, the St. John River was shallower than admitted on charts, but we had no difficulty passing through the little Ortega River Bridge and docking at Ortega Landing Marina before noon.  This is a very nice facility with pool, hot tub, and nice facilities, and we are glad to be in Florida, only four months after the arrival anticipated in our original plans last fall!

Fernandina Beach, FL

On Watch

Jacksonville, FL

Jacksonville, FL

Jacksonville, FL

Jacksonville, FL

Ortega Landing Marina

Ortega Landing Marina

 

 

 

Isle of Hope, GA to North River, GA to Brunswick, GA Feb 28-Mar 1

We departed Isle of Hope at first light to maximize our tide height at Hell Gate.  Though we were above half-tide, it was still a difficult entrance because strong winds and a lot of waves were behind us, and an entrance marker was missing.  We cleared the area, and the rest of the day was spent in rain and driving wind (not forecasted).  We anchored in the North River, just north of the difficult Little Mud River, and had an uneventful, very rural, evening.  The anchor dug in well, and with the high winds was retrieved the next morning in a huge glob of clay.  We had no real difficulty in the Little Mud River this year, unlike our trip north a couple of years ago, because we were traversing it at absolute high tide.  There was some fog, but we arrived in Brunswick shortly before noon.  After getting situated, we rode bicycles around the old downtown area.  Many of the old buildings and homes are impressive, but obviously “town” has moved to the suburbs! 

Downtown Brunswick, GA

Old City Hall, Brunswick, GA

Brunswick, GA

Brunswick, GA

Brunswick, GA

New City Hall, Brunswick, GA

Historic Courthouse, Brunswick, GA

Texas Ranger, Brunswick Landing

Charleston, SC to Beaufort, SC to Isle of Hope, GA Feb. 25-27

We left Toler’s Cove at dead low tide, creeping out through the shallow channel and barely clearing the bottom, so that we could reach other downstream shallow areas with better tide.  We crossed Charleston Harbor entrance, ran up the Ashley River past historic downtown, the Coast Guard base, and the massive Charleston City Marina, and then turned out of the river into the ICW southbound.  Our early start and careful time and distance calculations allowed us to traverse many of the notoriously shallow areas of the South Carolina ICW at nearer to high tide.  It also allowed favorable tidal currents to speed us along for the majority of our travels.  South Carolina, for whatever political reasons, has not been allotted funds for the Army Corps of Engineers to perform dredging work in the ICW in many years, and this is why it is such a difficult area to traverse.  After about nine hours, we arrived in Beaufort, SC at the Downtown Marina, impressed the dock staff with a backing maneuver in brisk current, and tied up in the exact same spot we occupied while traveling north about 18 months ago!  We “ate in” due to the heavy rain just beginning (which lasted all night), and then the next morning explored the town.  We had really seen Beaufort pretty well on our first stop, but we hiked up to the post office to mail a birthday card to a friend back home, and then toured all the shops in the historic downtown area.

After a second night it was time to move on.  Kay opted against departing at 0300 and going offshore to Brunswick (only the one day was forecast to be good weather), so we left about 0830 and traveled down the ICW, again timing our arrival at some shallow areas near Savannah to occur nearer to high tide later in the day.  We passed by the Marine Corps recruit depot at Parris Island, down behind Hilton Head Island, and crossed the Savannah River into Georgia about 1300.  We then worked our way farther south past Thunderbolt Marina where we stayed traveling north, and docked at Isle of Hope Marina.  There are some beautiful tree- and moss-enshrouded homes, and we drove around in the loaner car to see the area.  This location gets us an hour farther south, an advantage tomorrow as we depart at first light to pass a treacherous shallow spot known as “Hell Gate” as near to high tide as we can arrive.  There was some moderation in the extreme cold today, and the sun even tried to divulge itself at times.  As should be obvious, EVERYTHING related to travel on a boat revolves around weather, tides, and currents!   



We Are In Georgia Now!

Isle of Hope, GA

Isle of Hope, GA



Isle of Hope, GA



Isle of Hope, GA

Isle of Hope, GA

 

Myrtle Beach, SC to Georgetown, SC to Charleston, SC February 16-24

         We traveled from Osprey Marina in Myrtle Beach to Georgetown, SC on a COLD day.  Upon arrival, Kay asked the dockmaster if he cared where on the dock we tied up, and his response was, “well, did you see anyone else out on the water today?”  Georgetown has a quaint old downtown area which, but for the cold, misty weather, we enjoyed touring.  Our second night there, we did find a very good restaurant, and Kay finally got to eat out after cooking aboard for the better part of a week.  The microwave got a rest!  (Very) cold fronts are coming through about every 48 hours, so we can travel only every 2^nd or 3^rd day.  We are also entering areas where tidal height is critical…many are not passable during the lower half of the tide cycle, so careful planning is necessary.             We left Georgetown early (based upon tide predictions) in fog, and worked our way down the ICW towards Charleston.  By early afternoon we had reached an area just north of Isle of Palms, and pulled off into a creek where we had anchored overnight on our way north a couple of years ago.  We anchored for a couple of hours waiting for the tide to rise, and then crept along at about 2 knots through the stretch of ICW from Isle of Palms to Ben Sawyer Bridge—one of the worst on the waterway.  We made it, due to careful tide timing and patience to wait for that time, and tied up at Toler’s Cove, a small marina just north of Charleston Harbor about 5 p.m.  The next day we rented a car, and drove round-trip to Southport, NC to retrieve the Element.  For almost a week we stayed at Charleston…partly to unwind, restock, and sightsee, and partly because the weather wasn’t fit to travel (or take photos)!  We actually got up early one morning to leave, and realized the weather was much worse than predicted, so we just had an early breakfast and stayed another day!  Twenties every morning, 30’s every afternoon, usually with mist or drizzle!  For some of these days the Charleston airport was even closed!  We did have good electricity, a secure dock, decent TV (off-air), and every grocery store chain in the state within a mile, so what more can one ask for?  Well, lunch at Jestine’s, a quintessential downtown spot for Southern home-cooking, was a special stop, as was Poe’s Tavern on Sullivan’s Island (listed as one of the best burger spots in the country).  It’s hard to beat the culinary treats of Charleston, even in yucky weather!  

Charleston Architecture

Relic From the Retail Past

 

 

Southport, NC to Myrtle Beach, SC February 12-15

      After 3 ½ months in Southport, NC, Texas Ranger is again moving southward.  What was anticipated to be a stop of a few days for a quick engine repair turned into a prolonged stay over the Thanksgiving and Christmas holidays while we returned to Texas.  After driving back to Southport, we spent another 1 ½ weeks there enjoying the community and doing various boat projects.  Finally it is time to leave our many friends and resume our travels.  Since we obviously did not reach Florida by early November as planned, we now have no set agenda, and so are enjoying stops at several small towns that we had to bypass on our trip northward a couple of years ago.  Though we are certain that the intermittent electronic issue which was randomly shutting down one engine is repaired, we still will travel in the ICW rather than offshore for a few days to become emotionally comfortable that the repair is complete!  Also, this time of year, fronts are coming through about every 48 hours, so offshore weather windows are quite brief.
      Our first day of travel was a delightful clear, cool run from Southport, NC to Little River, SC.  We docked inside the well-protected basin at the Myrtle Beach Yacht Club to await the evening blow.  The basin is largely surrounded by three-story condos, so the howling norther had little effect on us.  After a second evening, we awoke to 24 degrees and frost on the boat, and moved on down the ICW to Osprey Marina, a quaint but popular stop set well off the ICW in a secluded cove.  We had anchored not far from here in a beautiful oxbow of the river on our trip north, but the wind is to again howl from the north, so we will hunker down at a dock with electrical power for the heaters!  In a day or two (just before the next arctic front) we will travel to Georgetown, SC, a quaint little city that we missed a couple of years ago due to a significant downtown fire that had just occurred.    From there, we will journey to Charleston, most likely for a more extended stay, and will fetch our car from Southport to provide access for more extended exploration in the area.



Myrtle Beach Yacht Club Entry, Little River, SC



Myrtle Beach Yacht Club



Myrtle Beach Yacht Club Basin

 

Osprey Marina Entry Channel

Osprey Marina, Myrtle Beach, SC

Osprey Marina

Texas Ranger at Osprey Marina