TEXAS RANGER: Cap-a-l’Aigle, QC to Saguenay Fjord and Anse-Saint-Jean, QC July 12--14

We departed Cap-a-l’Aigle and headed downriver (northeast) toward Tadoussac, QC and the Saguenay Fjord. Arriving around noon, we saw seals and a number of the white Beluga whales which are an endangered species. While many were well away from the boat, some came alongside to take a close look at us. We slowly moved up into the Saguenay River and fjord, passing high rocky hills covered with surprisingly dense forest. This is truly an area that manifests the wonders of God’s creation. We may not have seen the cattle, but we’ve certainly seen the 1000 hills! Water depths of over 800 feet were common, and the water depth might be 200 feet within 50 feet of the shore. About 22 miles up the fjord, after scouting several spots for anchorage without success, our traveling companions secured dockage for us at a small marina that had not answered its telephone for several days previously as we had tried to call for reservations. Texas Ranger proceeded another few miles up the fjord to visit Baie Eternite, whose entrance is flanked by Cap Eternite and Cap Trinite. On the latter, looking out over the fjord, is a statue of the Virgin Mary. Sculpted of white pine in 1881 and then covered with lead for protection, it was evidently placed there by a merchant grateful for surviving a fall through the ice, and passenger ships passing by at night used to spotlight it while Ave Maria played on their sound systems. Returning to the marina, we docked with lots of help and scrutiny from the many boaters on the dock.
We stayed longer than planned because the weather was not favorable, and the marina at Tadoussac had no space. Therefore, we spent two nights, and part of a third, with these friendly folks. They presented us their yacht club burgee, and another pennant to fly proclaiming us “ambassadors” of the club. We hosted three couples aboard one evening for snacks—our traveling companions Ron & Michele, Tom and Cathy (semi-retired shipping company exec), and Paul and Jillian (semi-retired Canadian federal judge). I had met Paul in Quebec, and we met Tom on the docks. They are all from the Montreal area, and it was fun to rendezvous again. On our last day in Saint-Jean, I installed a radar reflector on my masthead light support, and we then hiked into town to mail a birthday card to a friend back home. According to Google Maps, the post office was about 1.5 kilometers away. Well, it wasn’t! We did see a quaint one-lane covered bridge, the old village church, etc., and after inquiring in a bank where no English was spoken, we finally reached the post office 5 km distant. No English at all there either, but I knew enough French to make my request known. Our traveling companions had requested some milk if we passed a store, and we saw one another 100 yards down the road. On entering, I spied one of the local residents I had met at the marina, and, having just walked an hour, asked if he would give us a ride back to the boat. He graciously agreed, so we grabbed a couple of 2L jugs of milk ($4/each) and with great relief rode back instead of walking. I profusely thanked him in four different languages!