TEXAS RANGER: Essex, CT and Block Island, RI June 7--12

     Finally, a break in the yucky weather allowed more comfortable, even if not beautiful, travel along the Connecticut coast to Essex, up the Connecticut River past Old Saybrook and Old Lyme (passing through the Old Lyme Drawbridge). We stayed at a picturesque marina on a small island (about 50 yards) off the shore. A pontoon boat ferry transported guests across the channel "to town", where they were able to tour a classic 18th century New England village. Things are just beginning to awaken in this part of the country, and some shops and services are still not in full swing. Certainly the crowds have not yet arrived. We enjoyed a relaxed few days and dined in not only small, local establishments, but also at the famed Griswold Inn which was opened in 1779. The food was very good, but the atmosphere and décor were beyond belief. Actually, a lot of the buildings in this town date from pre-revolutionary war days!

     We next traveled to Old Salt Pond on Block Island, RI. Since the current through The Race at the eastern end of Long Island Sound would be against us all day (to the tune of 3.5 knots), we stayed north of Fischer Island where the adverse current was closer to 1.5 knots. After passing Watch Hill Point, we turned south toward Block Island, a place I had heard about as a sailor (Block Island Race, Block Island Race Week, etc.) all of my life. We had carefully checked that Race Week was still ahead, and that we would not conflict with the many boats that would attend. On busy holiday weekends (e.g., July 4), as many as 2,000 boats anchor or moor in this harbor. Fortunately, it was not nearly that crowded yet. We had no problem procuring a mooring ball, and on a couple of days we walked to the other side of the island to Old Harbor, the larger town. Magnificent old hotels, and many "tourist" shops, abound. Sitting on the porches of the hotels and watching the harbor and surrounding waters while nibbling on a snack is the epitome of relaxed, "island living". Food was good, and the Oar Restaurant in New Harbor (nearer our boat) was outstanding.  The décor consisted of hundreds of oars, many personalized.

     It is time to move on if we are to visit many of the locations that we missed when transiting this area a couple of years ago. Because of crowds, many become practically inaccessible by July 4, and so we are visiting them before the Kadey-Krogen 40th Anniversary Party in Newport, RI June 29--July 2.