TEXAS RANGER: Martha's Vineyard June 13--15

     In the golden age of whaling (1830-1845), there were three major whaling ports in this area: New Bedford, Nantucket, and Edgartown. Edgartown, the first settlement on the island of Martha's Vineyard (1642), is where Texas Ranger has been on a mooring the last few days following a passage from Block Island. Though it originally had a different name, it was renamed in honor of Edgar, son of the Duke of York. It lies on the east end of the island, and features the white clapboard buildings so typical of that period in New England history. It is a thriving community whose economy is now driven primarily by tourism. In its heyday, there were about 120 whaling captains living here, and most of their homes--quite prestigious by the standards of their day--still line the harbor. Those familiar with the sea chantey "Old Zeb" will remember the reference therein to Edgartown. Many upscale restaurants and stores abound in the old downtown area, including the original Vineyard Vines store.
     On our second day, we traveled (very economical 3-day Senior bus pass) to Vineyard Haven, the harbor which receives most of the huge ferries that transport people and vehicles from the mainland, and wandered its "tourist trap" Main Street, with many interesting shops. On the waterfront is the Black Dog Tavern--the original restaurant which gave rise to a bakery and a line of clothing well-known to most Labrador Retriever owners. Leaving Vineyard Haven, we went to Menemsha, a small harbor near the northwestern end of the island. It was nice to see the harbor, as friends have told us of their previous visits there by boat. There was little to see except a couple of seafood companies and gift shops. The Obamas have just purchased a home east of Menemsha--up a private road with no other access, but a beautiful view of Vineyard Sound. The far western tip of the island was next on our agenda--the town of Aquinnah (Wampanoag reservation area) and Gay Head Light--the lighthouse marking the western tip of Martha's Vineyard.
   Our third day on the island included a trip to Oak Bluffs, a very unique village north of Edgartown. It originated following the War of Northern Aggression as the site of Methodist camp meetings. Originally participants pitched their tents in the vicinity of the central Tabernacle, but later those abodes evolved into gingerbread-style houses, over 300 of which still comprise the village. The Tabernacle seats over 3,000, and is in Trinity Park across from both Trinity Methodist Church and the unique octagonal Union Chapel with its three-tiered roof and four doors, which was built in 1871 as an interdenominational chapel. We finished off our day with some final sightseeing and shopping (not purchasing!) in Edgartown. Though our mooring was between Martha's Vineyard and Chappaquiddick Island which was made notorious by Teddy Kennedy--the inquest was held in the Duke County (New York had Kings and Queens counties) courthouse in Edgartown--we did not ride the small ferry across.